Harrison M400 Lathe Manual Pdf

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Posted by RICHARD GREEN 2 on 08:54:18: I put a piece of 1 1/2' silver steel in the chuck and it ran concentrically, but was high on the outer end, so I've raised the rear of the headstock to compensate for it, thats how I got it from 30 thou to 1 thou. The bed looks to be in very good condition, so I think my real trouble is possibly in the main spindle bearings, possibly being worn. There is no movement in the main spindle when I check it with a dial gauge, but whats happening at 300rpm I dont know. You don't mean that you have unbolted the headstock and shimmed it do you? If there is no play in the headstock bearings, then you'll gain nothing by touching them - you certainly won't want to buy any when you find out the price either! So with no wear in the bed and no play in the bearings, it would seem we are down to an alignment problem. First thing to do is be 100% sure that the bed is without twist, i.e.

An Operation, Maintenance & Parts Manual is available for the M400. Three smooth-finish levers (like those on other contemporary Harrison lathes these could. Harrison V350 Vari Speed Center Lathe Operations Manual & Parts List PDF copy. HARRISON LATHE V460 18' OPERATIONS MANUAL AND SPARE PARTS LIST PDF MANUAL. Harrison M400, 420mm Centre Lathe, Operations Parts & Electrical Manual Year (19.

It is 'level' when gauged against the working surfaces of the bed. Once this is done, the lathe should turn to close limits of parallelism that are similar to those obtained by the manufacturer. If the results are still unacceptable then you need to find out why the headstock is not properly aligned to the bed, which would probably involve separating the two and checking for signs of tampering. I should add to my answer about the jacking feet by saying that the M12 nut shown in the link is redundant, at least on my M300 cabinet; the M12 stud screws into the threaded hole in the feet, and a spanner on the bottom nut (which is actually fixed to the stud) will adjust the height. I guess the M12 nut is for use when there is only a plain hole to use, or as a locknut.

Harold, thanks for the comment, glad to see I'm not the only one who thinks levelling is unnecessary. In fact I do try to keep the bed of my lathes reasonably level, but only so I can use it as a reference if needed - and I can't remember actually so needing! David Edited By David Littlewood on 12:06:52 'Spare' nut is for locking against machine base to prevent movement should your machine vibrate. The preload on the main bearings is measured with the machine at running temperature. Best advice, do not touch unless you know what you are doing and have the right tools.

As Blowlamp says Super Gamet bearings are very 'pricey' KWIL, I did suggest the locknut use - though just how much vibration it would need to cause a foot to rotate under 1/4 tonne of compressive load must be left to the imagination. David There are however some machine mounts which do not have a fixed foot and a ball ended threaded shaft bears in the centre of a cup. This type could be affected by vibration. The fixed foot types are more stable but perhaps more difficult to adjust accurately because you are trying to rotate the foot on the floor under your 1/4 tonne compressive load, hence perhaps the two nuts?

Hello Blowlamp, I've done all things that you suggest last year, The bed is level, the bearings seem to be OK, the bed looks to be in good condition, so the only option left was to shim the headstock, which I've done, at least it's made the lathe usable, although I'm not really happy with it, I didn't have much choice, I had jobs to do with it and had to do something. Who dares wins? It's a big lathe, 10' centre height and 80' between centres, it's probably done some heavy work in it's life, but as Michael says it shouldn't move much in 30 years of hard work Richard. 10 articles Hi There The feet I use are supplied by J&L industrial.

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They are quite solid with rubber on the base. They really work well even on wooden shed floors (I know that is not perfect). The ones used by the old Myford company (no idea what RDG use) are awful. Like standing the machine on a bit of rubber. Regards David KWIL, The feet I use (and the ones in the link I posted) are made so that the steel stud rotates independently of the black foot, so it is easy to rotate the hex nut at the base - well, it's a bit stiff, but definitely do-able by normal spanner/hand power. David Hi Richard, I Agree with David Littlewood's first reply. Here are some more thoughts on the problem.

The bed will be machined all the way along from the tailstock end to the headstock end so the surface that the headstock aligns to has got to be in line with the rest of the bed. The spindle axis of the headstock will have originally been machined in line with the surface that mates with the bed. Stalker clear sky patch. I can not see how this alignment can have changed unless the lathe has been dropped. If this had happened I think there would be visible damage. Even if the headstock was from a different lathe The spindle axis would still be aligned with the bed.